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Louise Chéruit
Madame Louise Chéruit〔 (1866-1955), born Louise Lemaire, often erroneously called Mme Madeleine Chéruit, was among the foremost couturiers of her generation, and one of the first women to control a major French fashion house.〔(Childs Gallery, ''Paul César Helleu'': "Madame Chéruit" (1900) ), commentary about a portrait, downloaded 31 March 2012〕 Her salon operated in the Place Vendôme in Paris under the name Chéruit ((: ʃeʁi )) from 1906 to 1935. Chéruit is best remembered today as the subject of a number of portraits by Paul César Helleu, with whom she conducted an affair before opening her couture house 〔Richard Dormant, ed., ''James McNeill Whistler'' (1995), p. 276.〕 and for the appearance of her name in two celebrated works of literature, Marcel Proust's ''Remembrance of Things Past'' (1910) and Evelyn Waugh's ''Vile Bodies'' (1930).〔(Marcel Proust (1919), ''À la recherche du temps perdu,'' tome 5 ), p. 165, ''« ... Non, répondait Elstir, mais cela sera. D'ailleurs, il y a peu de couturiers, un ou deux, Callot, quoique donnant un peu trop dans la dentelle, Doucet, Chéruit, quelquefois Paquin. Le reste sont des horreurs. »''; Evelyn Waugh, ''Vile Bodies and Black Mischief'' (1958), p. 46.〕 Her name is also frequently associated with the fashion photography of Edward Steichen whose favorite model, Marion Morehouse, often wore gowns from the house of Chéruit for ''Vogue'' magazine in the 1920s. One particular Steichen image has become iconic: Morehouse in a jet-beaded black net Chéruit dress, first published in 1927.〔"Cheruit's Gown of Glittering Jet," ''Vogue'', May 1, 1927, p. 59.〕
==Early life and career==
Many basic facts about the life of Madame Chéruit are uncertain, although recent research shows that her forename was not "Madeleine," as so many traditional fashion resources claim.〔Louise Cheruit, "La Mode," ''Harper's Bazaar'', February 1915, pp. 18-19; Anne Rittenhouse, "Fashion Under Fire," ''Vogue'', October 1, 1914, p. 110.〕 According to the Carnavalet Museum, Mme "Madeleine" Chéruit (Louise Lemaire) was born on 9 June 1866. ''Vogue'' magazine described her as "a Louis XVI woman because she has the daintiness, the extravagant tastes, the exquisite charm, and the art of those French ladies who went gaily through the pre-revolution epoch."
Louise, whose mother was a seamstress, received her early professional training in dressmaking in the late 1880s with Raudnitz & Cie, located in the heart of Paris.〔M.D.C. Crawford, ''The Ways of Fashion'' (1948), p. 56.〕 The salon especially appealed to women who wanted ensembles that exuded an air of youthfulness and simplicity made of the finest fabrics.〔Linda Walters, and Patricia Cunningham, ed., ''Twentieth-Century American Fashion'' (2005), p.21〕 Mme Chéruit’s talent, alongside that of her sister Marie Huet, was such that they ascended to leading positions within the firm. On 28 August 1895, Louise married Prosper Chéruit who supported her creative talents and contributed to some business aspects of her early career.
Mme Chéruit notably helped launch the career of Paul Poiret, one of the early twentieth century’s most visionary designers, by buying a collection of twelve of his first designs in 1898.〔(The Metropolitan Museum of Art, ''Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History'', "Paul Poiret (1879-1944)" )〕 By 1900, labels sewn into clothes created at Raudnitz bore the words, ''Raudnitz & Cie, Huet & Chéruit Srs., 21, Place Vendôme, Paris'' – with the names of the sisters in more prominent type.〔(The Metropolitan Museum of Art, ''Wedding Dress, Raudnitz and Co. - Huet and Chéruit'' (1900) ), digital image of dress label〕 By 1905, the firm's labels read, ''Huet & Chéruit, Anc.ne Mon. Raudnitz & Cie'' ("Huet and Chéruit, formerly Mr. Raudnitz and Co.").〔(The Metropolitan Museum of Art, ''Suit, Raudnitz and Co. - Huet and Chéruit'' (1905) ), digital image of dress label〕
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